How to Design a Tie
February 19, 2009
Now that my neckwear collection has officially hit the floor at Bergdorf Goodman, several people have asked me about my design process. I hope the below images and explanation of my Doctor T.J. Eckleburg tie from my Spring 2009 collection will help!
The inspiration for this tie began with Doctor T.J. Eckleburg’s all seeing eyes. The sign from F. Scott Fitzgerald’s “The Great Gatsby” was the start! The book which was written in the 1920’s mentioned the dilapidated sign which was most likely a trade sign that had been left over from the Victorian Era. I began to research Victorian optometrist signs. Here is what I found:
I also liked the idea of having a chain on the glasses. They would have properly been worn in the Victorian Era with a chain pinned to the lapel of your jacket. I began to research old cabinet cards to find an example.
Next, I created a CAD in Adobe Illustrator making sure that the chain wrapped around to the back of the tie as though it was pinned on. I handed the CAD off to my weaving mill in England:
Next, my mill came back to me with a first submit for comments:
Comments are made and the corrections are made to the pattern through weaving. Here is the second submit:
I still thought that this was missing a pop of color, so we added blue to the center of the eye. At this point, I began working with my factory to develop a marker to get minimum wastage when cutting this pattern. As you can see on the sample yardage below, we had to work on the placement of the motif because they were too close together.
Once the yardage is woven perfectly it is cut, folded, and sewn by hand in our union shop in New York City.
Here is the finished product ready to ship!:
David Hart & Co. Ties Available at Bergdorf Goodman